Sometimes it seems that the fashion world makes up a word a week: ‘jeggings’, ‘peasant-chic’, ‘shants’ – it all gets very confusing. Some new terms, however, are important for shaping the way we understand and engage with fashion. Ethical fashion terms are a case in point. Ethical brands need to be clear about why they call themselves ethical, with definitive terms that outline what ‘ethical’ really is.

MADE-BY said: “Part of the problem is that there is often no established usage in the fashion industry for some of these new [ethical fashion] terms. Many of these words are not even defined in the dictionary yet.”

MADE-BY’s new calendar features images from top ethical designers who have collaborated with MADE-BY, including Kuyichi (pictured above), Edun and Claudia Strater (pictured below.) Alongside the beautiful pictures are definitions of key terms such as ‘organic cotton’ and ‘natural’.  It’s a stylish guide to the ethical fashion world, which is guaranteed to make you a more assured ethical shopper.

We asked MADE-BY’s UK General Manager, Allanna McAspurn, if she thought some fashion labels were exploiting ethical fashion terms to make a profit. She said: “Some brands are at times not able to fully substantiate the claims that they make around sustainability. I think this is often down to them not fully understanding the terms they are using, rather than setting out to deliberately misuse the terminology.”

At the Copenhagen Fashion Summit last year, Financial Times Fashion Editor Vanessa Friedman talked about the need for clear definitions about ethical fashion. She said: “If I say ‘sustainable’ and you say ‘sustainable’ is one of us talking about employment issues and one of us talking about the environment? It is important to be clear about what you are saying and what it means.”

The A2 calendar was launched last weekend at the Pure Womenswear tradeshow.

True to its word, EcoChic Geneva was jam packed with experts and gorgeous sustainable fashion all there to promote the conservation of biodiversity.  There were designers, government representatives, NGOs, academics and industry leaders, all educators and innovators in their fields.

Those of us who favour fashion with a conscience all want to know that we can trust the brands we are buying from, and that any “eco”, “green” “organic” or “fair trade” claims designers make are genuine.  So how can the industry help make ethical fashion more accessible to fashion lovers across the land?  Many of the experts were in agreement that certification needed to be clearer and more consistent – a global set of certifications that designers, buyers and consumers alike could recognise and understand so we all know what to look out for when we shop, wherever that may be in the world.

NEXT PAGE: Made By and Edun

The talks will cover strategies for government and businesses worldwide, as well as focusing on the role consumers will play in supporting sustainability in the fashion industry.  As GreenmyLIFEstyle’s personal stylist, I’m particularly interested in hearing more from reputed industry leaders, so we can continue to bring you the best eco fashion recommendations out there.

The two day conference will culminate in a fashion show and exhibition launch featuring international Eco-Couture and Sustainable Ready-To-Wear.  The work of celebrated designers such as Diane Von Furstenberg and John Rocha will be shown alongside up-and-coming designers like Zhang Da and Alexandre Herchcovich, each briefed to create a sustainable show-stopping piece.  Ready to wear includes Ethical Fashion Forum innovation winners Mia Nisbett and Lalesso as well as established names like Annie Greenabelle, Edun, Noir and Ciel.

The Eco Chic Geneva exhibition will be open for two weeks after the show but just in case you don’t happen to be in Switzerland in the next couple of weeks, we’ll be bringing you some of our favourite looks from the event later on this week. Sketches of the eco-couture designs were released to whet our appetite so here are a few that I can’t wait to see realised on the catwalk.

NEXT: WHAT ELSE TO EXPECT!

Tamasyn Gambell’s recycled range gives vintage scarves a new lease of life by screen printing new designs on top of the old. As past designs merge with modern patterns, the scarf becomes a unique piece of fashion.

Here the experienced designer talks us through the steps involved in turning a simple cotton scarf into a chic spring item.

Sarah writes: What happens when four influential and passionate women get together to chat ethical fashion and homewares? The answer is a brand new shopping idea, of course! Launching this month is 12 Degrees Of Fashion, a monthly pop-up shop with a different fashion theme each time.

12 Degrees Of Fashion is located at EcoAge in Chiswick, the ethical homewares store and consultancy that Livia runs, with a team that includes her brother Nicola Giuggiolo and husband Colin, though we’re not sure he’s behind the till that often. The monthly pop-up themes will range from showcases for organic denim and eco cashmere through to a focus on trans-seasonal pieces that bypass faddy fashion. Live right now is Livia’s pick from Estethica, the ethical fashion zone at London Fashion Week.

Sarah: 12 Degrees of Ethical Fashion via 12 months of ethical pop-up stores – fabulous. Tell me how the idea originated
Livia: Lucy and I have been knowing each other for a couple of years – I always loved her column in the Observer and when we opened the Eco shop, I wanted her to come and see it … needless to say it was love at first sight!!!!  She then introduced to me Jocelyn Whipple, who annoyingly knows everything about ethical fabrics and materials and Orsola De Castro, whose clothes I always loved and … And you know what happens when you put four women in a room too often! We couldn’t stop talking and we came up with the idea of the 12 degrees very spontaneously!

Sarah: What are you trying to achieve with it?
Livia: Quite simply, We would love to build the biggest chain of ethical fashion stores in the world…!

Sarah: What will the first pop-up shop be?
Livia: It will be my choice of the best of Estethica at London Fashion Week. My hot tips are From Somewhere (of course!) Elena Garcia and Ciel – all fabulous.

Sarah: What other pop-up treats can we look forward to?
Livia: There will be the month of denim, we found the most gorgeous fits and a month about party dresses which will turn us all very girly and very silly – I can’t wait for that. And the month about fairtrade and labor, which apart from the beautiful clothes will finally shed some light on my total confusion in trade rules and labor issues. And then of course there will be Made, the most beautiful jewels, which will accompany every month with different collections inspired by the theme of the pop up shop.

Sarah: We heard there will be workshops. What are those about?
Livia: Many! We want this year to be full of the best fashion “treats” possible. You will find all the information in time on the website (www/eco-age,com) as we do not want to reveal all of them at once but 12 degrees has to be fun as well as “informational” – for example A denim “surgeon” will come to the shop in April and finally help us to find the perfect fit of jeans – A vintage expert will show us how to make our cupboard “sustainalbe” in time and how to choose vintage clothes -  we will have a workshop on how to “mend, do and make”… Once I turned a pair of wonderful Marni trousers into great cushions…

Sarah: Livia, your life must be hectic. How do you manage to fit it all in? Does Colin help?
Livia: My life is hectic yes but this is my personality and I can’t help it.  Colin? who is Colin?!

Sarah: Go on, tell us which ethical fashion pieces you’re wearing right now
Livia: A dress from Ciel which I am almost destroyed as I wore it so many times. And a cardigan from Stewart & Brown which is so cosy and warm. And my boots which are not from an ethical designer but I’ve had them for five years and I live in them. And right at this moment I am completely in love with the new skeleton collection from Made – they are jewels which make me feel still young and hip, and dream of being a rock star!

12 Degrees Of Fashion is located at EcoAge, 213 Chiswick High Road Chiswick London W4 2DW. Opening time: Tue-Sat 10:00-6:00

Lianne writes:

Despite a recession, some things still boom, and if the development of a special ethical fashion area at Pure, the leading high street fashion show, is anything to go by, the ethical market would appear to be one of them.

Perhaps a reaction to Estethica, the ethical event at London Fashion Week, now in its sixth season of showcasing the best in UK and international organic, Fair Trade and sustainable design, Ethical Pure launched this weekend, with separate eco areas in the main hall and in the Footwear and Accessories areas.

Many of the designers we’ve come to associate with Estethica were also in attendance at Pure (Amana, EJF, Enamore, Izzy Lane, People Tree) which could be argued as a sign that there are still not enough thriving and exciting eco labels in the UK, but more likely, they were wisely taking advantage of airing their designs to a new and wider audience of buyers who cater for more mainstream and provincial stores and who have recently been turned on to the burgeoning green market.

The result of Pure’s wider remit? More, less rarefied, ethical labels were able to find space, plus there was room for new labels from Europe.

Of the international newbies I liked, Sweet Blossom, pictured above, a very fresh line of organic and fair trade cotton and lace dresses and breezy shirts in the purest white, black and beige and grey which evoked early Timotei adverts and reminded us of pieces Zara were doing three seasons ago, which is no bad thing for a modern ethical label. However the purity of the collection did seem a little incongruous for autumn buying.

Kolam, another Parisien eco label, could be a real grower. It had a nice simplicity to its brief collection, and for men especially, rudely under-served in the ethical market, some great smart casual pieces. Think shirts and coats that were more for the city than rampaging in woods (which appears to be the MO of most eco menswear).

One of our favourite labels Amana were showing as part of winning the Pure sponsored Commercial Prize at the RE:Fashion awards, and it was inspiring to see how the line has developed each season, and especially with their AW09 collection.

The London-based duo have worked hard to unearth innovative new organic and sustainable fabrics to work with and their finds of organic silk jersey, merino wool and wool interlock will really set them apart from the competition. I loved their Assmae cardigan in grey baby llama, and the fact they keep their collection tight with easy to wear pieces.

Also showing were Enamore, the sustainable lingerie designer who was showing a new collection of jewellery pieces designed to complement their apparel line, and Sika, a bright young, fun line created from Ghanaian fabrics. The pieces trod the line of wearability well, often hard with the big bold prints, batik and tie dye Ghanian fabrics are reknowned for, and managed funky and refreshing without being overwhelming.

In Footwear and Accessories, the wider catchment of Pure came into its own with room for labels as diverse as Terra Plana (great new knee-high boots for AW09) Nepelase knit line Cocowai, Kenyan bead company Kazuri and Australian eco bag label Envirosax, able to exhibit yards from each other.

Over at Margin, two great little eco labels were showing in amongst the hip streetwear lines Margin is known for collating. Bibico, which has only just delivered its first collection of Fair Trade pieces to yours truly, has even better pieces lined up for Autumn. Knitwear, often so hard for eco designers to produce at a good price, will be a point of strength for the nautical inspired casual line. Right next to Bibico were Miksa, also showing their second Fair Trade collection, a zip through of flirty skirts, bubble dresses, bombers, print tees and knits.

A few may have come away from Ethical Pure and Margin uninspired. This is not high fashion by any means, but it is very wearable and, so important right now, it will be affordable for you.

It was however hard to judge just how deep the convictions of the organisers to the ethical market are. The Ethical Pure area was tucked away right at the back of the main hall. Surely you shout about your new designers, and new ethics by placing then slam upfront?

Now see:

Fashion-Conscience.com launches four gorgeous new designers for SS09: Rani Jones, Bibico, Hovey Lee and Minna

WIN Fair trade knickers from the luscious Knickers In A Box

Sarah: Lianne, we’re thrilled that you’ve agreed to be one of our experts. Fashion-Conscience.com is doing a great job of bringing stylish ethical fashion to the fore. You’re like our very own Gok and Mary rolled into one.
Lianne: It’s a pleasure. I just like the fact that greenmystyle is treating eco style as it should be, celebrating style that is green as a bonus. One of the reasons a lot of people have failed to warm to green living until now is because the perceptions are of it being hippyish, unstylish and lumpen. We live in world where almost anything is possible, so why not eco fashion, living and beauty that is as well designed as anything else? By writing in a modern, fashion-conscious way and with a fresh look and zeitgeisty feel, you’re proving everyday that green is where style is at.

Sarah: Who do you think would make a great modern (ethical) style icon?
Lianne: I am a big fan of Alexa Chung’s style – she is a known eco fashionista, having designed for Made jewellery, and mixes up vintage with new. I would like to see her wear a bit more eco fashion every day, and would love to dress her for a red carpet event to prove eco is stylish enough for any event.

Sarah: What’s a good place to start for girls who want to green their style but aren’t sure how?
Lianne: I would say firstly, do you know your own style? The reason so many women end up with wardrobes stuffed full of pieces they don’t wear and get sucked into fast fashion is because they don’t have a clear idea of their own style. Once you do it’s much easier to apply what you like and suits you to buying ethically – be it new and ethical or vintage.

If you already do know what you like, start trawling – trawling eco fashion sites like www.fashion-conscience.com which bring together many designers under one roof, vintage shops and fairs.

If you don’t have much money and want to go eco in a credit crunch budget look hard at the pieces you already have. Don’t just through them out as the jackets is the wrong style right now. Could brass buttons make that coat bang up to date? Could a fringe on that silk scarf make it really now. Get creative with the clothes you already have.

Sarah: Have you found the perfect eco jean?
Lianne: I would say I have found the perfect wide-leg high-waist jean – Serfontaine’s organic Belted High Waist jeans (pictured) are gorgeous, soft, stretchy, seriously flattering. I’ve seen them on women from size 6 to 14, and they look amazing on all of them. Serfontaine’s Low Pro style is almost a near perfect jean as well, in terms of mid-blue, a bum-lift, and soft organic cotton. When it comes to sexy skinnies I love Kuyichi’s Neneh – I adore the zip pocket detail, and one season they did them in purple, which hit every button for me.

Sarah: I love the jacket you’re wearing in the picture of you here.
Lianne: Thank you very much! It’s a Julia Smith silk hemp jacket over an Ethical Justice Foundation Luella Bartley tee. I also had on Del Forte Ivy high waist black organic jeans that day – in case you’re interested!

Sarah: Do you choose eco products for your home too? And what about beauty products?
Lianne: I try not to buy unnecessary home wares, it’s all too easy to end up buying for the sake of it. When it comes to furniture I have always preferred furniture with history, or adapting old pieces. My bed is French 18C headboard and footboard, but we adapted an old futon to become the bed base. I have a Victorian oak chest, and chaise longue, and other furniture is mostly vintage 60s Danish, with retro chandeliers.

My old desk was a piece of glass over two 60s aluminium filing cabinets and the bathroom floor is reclaimed oak taken from an office in an old colliery. I have to admit I don’t buy a huge number of beauty products, but when I do, I like ranges you can decant from, to reduce packaging, and use natural and organic ingredients such as Origins, Kiehls and Aveda.

Sarah: We’ve just launched a sister glossy magazine, a “Vogue for vintage” called QueensOfVintage.com. What’s your favourite vintage find?
Lianne: I’ve seen QueensOfVintage.com, I love it! It’s a tough question – I have some great dresses, boots, jewellery. I once wore a black shoulderless 50s style vintage dress to a friend’s wedding which I totally forgot about and recently re-found. I just found a 60s glass and steel cocktail cabinet which reminds me of stainless steel trolleys you used to get in bathrooms, it’s in a bit of a state and is awaiting some TLC, but I know when I get a chance to smarten it up, it’ll be an amazing home for bathroom bits.

Sarah: What do you wear when you want to look really special?
Lianne: I usually wear a vintage dress with tights and stratospheric heels, big statement jewellery. I love dresses and by buying vintage you know you’ll never see anyone else in the same outfit.

Lara writes:

I think we can all confess to expecting miracles from our wardrobe. We all feel the frisson of hope that we’ll find something exciting on our clothes rail that we’ve forgotten about. You know, like that original YSL smoking jacket shoved at the back.  But, let’s face it, unless we buy something new to add to our abundance of clothes, we can safely say that’s not going to happen. Or is it?

With a little ingenuity, and the odd new accessory, it is possible to give your wardrobe a new lease of life without spending a penny. Rather than parting with your cash (recession anyone?) and adding to the pile, why not make your wardrobe go further? Feeling a little lost? All you need to do is take a second look with a new set of creative eyes (get some from a charity shop near you), and the possibilities are endless. Here are five ways how, with minimal to no spending required.

1. Learn to accessorise
If you think your clothes are too plain, introduce some colour with a statement necklace. You can transform your look by playing around with your old jewellery. Look in your mum’s old jewellery box too, or your gran’s, where you’re sure to find some vintage classics she’s forgotten about.

You can even add a little something to a chain; if you think creatively you can put anything you can imagine on it and make an eye-catching pendant which will get people asking you where it’s from. Shame they can’t buy it. Not.

Need inspiration? Check out the Mana collection of stunning recycled jewellery. You won’t believe how ordinary household objects can be transformed into one-of-a-kind classics, though Mana’s Manda La Ca Pet necklace made of recycled plastic bottles, rubber and Swarovski crystal beads (pictured above) might be a bit beyond a DIY job. Gorgeous isn’t it?

2. Hate it, swap it
Hate that old purple jumper? Don’t throw it away when you could swap it for something new and exciting; just because you don’t like it anymore doesn’t mean your friend won’t! Why not organise a swap party, they’re great fun, a good chance to socialise, and what’s best is you get something new.

If you need inspiration, check out Swishing or Oxfam.org.uk which will give you the pointers you need. If your friends clothes don’t appeal (no need to tell them) keep your eyes peeled for a swap event in your area.

There are some great swapping websites you can check out too, such as Fashionspace.com, Bigwardrobe.com and Whatsmineisyours.com, where you can buy, sell or swap independently designed, vintage or secondhand fashion.

3. Rip it up and start again
Think you’ve heard this one before? I bet you haven’t heard of Frocky Jack Morgan have you? No, didn’t think so. He’s about to become your new best friend. Frocky Jack features in How to videos on Expertvillage.com and his own site Frockyjackmorgan.com, one of my favourite sites for finding tips on how to chop up my clothes and turn them into something new.

This ‘be you own fashion designer’ thing sounds more daunting than it is. Repeat after me: “Scissors are my friend, not my foe!” And hey, you didn’t like that old dress / pair of jeans anyway. If that T-shirt-to-off the shoulder classic really does go wrong, there’s always the textile recycling bin. Just close your eyes and take that first snip. Erm, hang on…best leave the eyes open.

Shy of scissors? Try safety pins instead. Remember you are the boss of your look, tuck and pin the fabric where it works best with your body shape, and don’t add volume where it is not needed.

As I said, there are lots of videos online for you to look at. As well as Frocky Jack, also try Threadbanger.com and Treehuggertv.com , which will tell you all you need to know to successfully re-invent your clothes.

Get inspiration from award-winning young designer Mia (pictured) who collaborated with Junky Styling to win a design award at London Fashion Week this year. Mia sources secondhand clothing and traditional textiles from Malawi, which she reinvents into new pieces.

4. Inject some colour
If you like the style and shape of a garment but hate the colour, the solution is simple, dye it.  But rather than using conventional dyes which are harmful to both yourself and the environment, use natural dyes which are available online at sites like Dharmatrading.com.

You can add a little life to your footwear too, if you’re feeling really creative, show your eccentric side and consider spray-painting an old pair of trainers to give a dynamic edge.

While you’re busy dyeing your clothes, spend a little time mending them too. Learn to love your clothes for longer, fix the items that need a little TLC, and give them the new lease of life they deserve. You’ll remember why you liked it so much.

5. Wear it in a different role
If that evening dress is just not getting worn, add layers and wear it during the day. You’ll be surprised how it makes you feel – gorgeous hopefully, rather than hideously overdressed – and your wardrobe will suddenly seem so much larger. Result!

Judy, once a Selfridges personal shopper and TV fashion stylist, now runs Britain’s biggest clothes swapping website Whatsmineisyours.com. Three years ago she set up The Affordable Vintage Fashion Fair, a vintage fair with a whopping 40 plus stalls, which has brought affordable vintage fashion as well as reworked clothes and accessories to the north of England. The Fair is launching new ‘Make, Create and Customise’ areas at each event, tapping into the current ‘make do and mend’ vibe.

Lena: Hi Judy. Erm, yes, I have to admit to being over-excited about talking to you. Private time with a vintage style queen! So, Judy, it’s credit crunch time. Do you feel that vintage fashion is a real alternative to pricey high-end highstreet and designer fashion?

Judy: Absolutely! We’ve seen a huge increase in people coming to our Fashion Fairs. They still like their high street shops but are tired of seeing everyone wearing the same things. From vintage stores and at our Fairs they can pick up individual items such as a fabulous original 60s shift dress for £15 to £20. All of our stalls are price-checked to make sure no one is charging more than they should.

» Next page: Come on, Judy, what’s the real difference between vintage and secondhand?

]]> http://www.greenmystyle.com/greenmystylecom-meets-judy-berger-vintage-guru/feed/ 0 http://www.greenmystyle.com/exclusive-we-chat-eco-style-with-safia-minney/ http://www.greenmystyle.com/exclusive-we-chat-eco-style-with-safia-minney/#comments Tue, 21 Oct 2008 00:56:31 +0000 Sarah Woodhead http://www.greenmystyle.com/?p=1559 The first lady of Fair Trade fashion, Safia Minney, founder of People Tree, spares half an hour during the launch of her new book, ‘By Hand’, to talk ethics, stylish women, hot picks and Christmas socks with greenmystyle.com editor Sarah Woodhead.

In 1995 Fair Trade fashion brand People Tree set out to bring us beautiful clothes that had been made with care, consideration and beauty too. Founder Safia Minney said no to cheap, fast and exploitative fashion, dependent on migrant workers in sweatshops producing vast quantities of throw-away garments and intead focused on organically grown, hand-made, community-produced fashion.

In her first book, ‘By Hand’, published today, Safia sets out the case for organically grown, handwoven cotton and Fair Trade fashion, through conversation with farming cooperatives, slum based-activists, garment workers and jewellery makers in Asia, Africa and Latin America. Through words and stunning pictures she chronicles how she has inspired top designers like Richard Nicoll, Thakoon and Bora Aksu to models such as Helena Christensen, and worked with industry giants Topshop and asos.com, to rethink what is possible in fashion today.

Safia spared half an hour in her hectic schedule to talk to me about ethics, stylish women and Christmas shopping.

Sarah: Lots of us know about Fair Trade food, but not so many know about Fair Trade fashion. Why is it so important?
Safia: Because while Fair Trade foods are largely processed in developing countries, Fair Trade Fashion is finished in developing countries, with Fair Trade and Organic fiber and hand production methods like hand weaving etc. Huge numbers of people can earn income and escape from poverty through Fair Trade fashion.

»Next page: Safia’s picks from People Tree AW08

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