Exclusive: Expert stylehunter Lianne Ludlow reports from London fashion events

February 11, 2009 by greenmystyle

$Lianne Ludlow\'s pick of Pure and Margin$ Lianne Ludlow, uber cool eco-stylehunter, greenmystyle.com guru and founder of much-loved ethical fashion store Fashion-Conscience.com, hit London’s top fashion fairs Pure London and Margin this week, searching for the next hot ethical collections. In this exclusive report for greenmystyle.com, Lianne reveals which labels caught her eye. Take note, readers, Lianne is like Gok Wan and Mary Portas rolled into one and she’s spotting the eco labels you’re about to fall in love with.

Lianne writes:

Despite a recession, some things still boom, and if the development of a special ethical fashion area at Pure, the leading high street fashion show, is anything to go by, the ethical market would appear to be one of them.

Perhaps a reaction to Estethica, the ethical event at London Fashion Week, now in its sixth season of showcasing the best in UK and international organic, Fair Trade and sustainable design, Ethical Pure launched this weekend, with separate eco areas in the main hall and in the Footwear and Accessories areas.

Many of the designers we’ve come to associate with Estethica were also in attendance at Pure (Amana, EJF, Enamore, Izzy Lane, People Tree) which could be argued as a sign that there are still not enough thriving and exciting eco labels in the UK, but more likely, they were wisely taking advantage of airing their designs to a new and wider audience of buyers who cater for more mainstream and provincial stores and who have recently been turned on to the burgeoning green market.

The result of Pure’s wider remit? More, less rarefied, ethical labels were able to find space, plus there was room for new labels from Europe.

Of the international newbies I liked, Sweet Blossom, pictured above, a very fresh line of organic and fair trade cotton and lace dresses and breezy shirts in the purest white, black and beige and grey which evoked early Timotei adverts and reminded us of pieces Zara were doing three seasons ago, which is no bad thing for a modern ethical label. However the purity of the collection did seem a little incongruous for autumn buying.

Kolam, another Parisien eco label, could be a real grower. It had a nice simplicity to its brief collection, and for men especially, rudely under-served in the ethical market, some great smart casual pieces. Think shirts and coats that were more for the city than rampaging in woods (which appears to be the MO of most eco menswear).

One of our favourite labels Amana were showing as part of winning the Pure sponsored Commercial Prize at the RE:Fashion awards, and it was inspiring to see how the line has developed each season, and especially with their AW09 collection.

The London-based duo have worked hard to unearth innovative new organic and sustainable fabrics to work with and their finds of organic silk jersey, merino wool and wool interlock will really set them apart from the competition. I loved their Assmae cardigan in grey baby llama, and the fact they keep their collection tight with easy to wear pieces.

Also showing were Enamore, the sustainable lingerie designer who was showing a new collection of jewellery pieces designed to complement their apparel line, and Sika, a bright young, fun line created from Ghanaian fabrics. The pieces trod the line of wearability well, often hard with the big bold prints, batik and tie dye Ghanian fabrics are reknowned for, and managed funky and refreshing without being overwhelming.

In Footwear and Accessories, the wider catchment of Pure came into its own with room for labels as diverse as Terra Plana (great new knee-high boots for AW09) Nepelase knit line Cocowai, Kenyan bead company Kazuri and Australian eco bag label Envirosax, able to exhibit yards from each other.

Over at Margin, two great little eco labels were showing in amongst the hip streetwear lines Margin is known for collating. Bibico, which has only just delivered its first collection of Fair Trade pieces to yours truly, has even better pieces lined up for Autumn. Knitwear, often so hard for eco designers to produce at a good price, will be a point of strength for the nautical inspired casual line. Right next to Bibico were Miksa, also showing their second Fair Trade collection, a zip through of flirty skirts, bubble dresses, bombers, print tees and knits.

A few may have come away from Ethical Pure and Margin uninspired. This is not high fashion by any means, but it is very wearable and, so important right now, it will be affordable for you.

It was however hard to judge just how deep the convictions of the organisers to the ethical market are. The Ethical Pure area was tucked away right at the back of the main hall. Surely you shout about your new designers, and new ethics by placing then slam upfront?