EXCLUSIVE Interview with Rachael Cassar

Rachael Cassar’s one off pieces stood out amongst the designing elite at this year’s Estethica for their intricate delicacy and vision. The Australian’s directional, dramatic garments, defined by dark aesthetics and intricate detailing, are complemented by strong accessories. Here she talks exclusively to Lucie Goulet about her musical and cultural inspirations and the difficulties of creating one-off eco pieces.

Why did you decide to become an ethical fashion designer?

From an extremely young age I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer. I started collecting vintage jewellery and accessories from markets and began experimenting, taking things apart, redesigning them in new ways. From this my love for creating flourished and I soon progressed to clothes- taking things apart and changing them for myself. After graduating from high school, I studied fashion and textiles at university. During those four years I learnt about sustainability and the fashion industry’s contribution to the degradation of the worlds environment. From that moment, I knew that the only way I would feel comfortable dedicating my life to fashion was if I could pursue my design vision and still manage to make it environmentally friendly. Since I had experimented with deconstruction my whole life it was natural for me to use this design process. My final year graduation deconstructed range won awards and received great reviews. When I graduated from university in 2006, I decided to continue my vision of eco fashion/deconstruction and thus started my own label.

Your pieces are quite dark. What inspires you?

As The World Falls Down

I draw inspiration from anywhere. Art, music, photography, places… I am always attracted to dark moody images, which often inspire me.

Why did you name your latest collection Ruby?

My new collection Ruby is based on the Crow. I became really interested in this creature as I was quite scared of it, but intrigued by its beauty. According to a myth, when you see a crow, it is meant to be a deceased family member watching over you. I had a family member pass away at this very time. Thus it inspired me. I printed a huge image of a crow and posted it up on my studio window. I named the collection after my great aunt.

You’ve named Bjork as a source of inspiration. How did that translate in your work?

The 2006 Lancôme collection was inspired by the essence of an enchantress, an ethereal being. I was inspired by Bjork, the modern day enchantress, and her music. Her clashing off beat noises was translated into my fabric choices- harsh, metal-like wool contrasted with thin, skin-like organza. I also played on electric wirers meshed with silks, chiffons and embroidery. The shapes of the garments were experimental and pushed boundaries in terms of heavy structures effortlessly hanging off fragile bases. Being inspired by Bjork gave me no limits and allowed my most creative ideas to date to come to life.

Ruby

My first collection in 2006, As The World Falls Down, was inspired by the tale of The Labyrinth.

She Grows, a mini collection I made in 2007 using left over fabrics from As the World Falls Down, was inspired by the phrase “From muddy depths and days of darkness. She grows…” For me, it expresses the idea of a beautiful creature stuck in a world of darkness.

Your Sinking Night range was quite a break from those collections, using lace and white. Why the change?

The Sinking Night range was inspired by Venice and its fragility. My designs were based on the ghostly future of a city built on water. I tried to translate eeriness as I myself experienced it, walking the streets of Venice at night. Decaying lace, sparks of clear crystals, translucent fabrics together with nostalgic shapes represent a world of such beauty, history and delicateness

What has the response to your clothes been so far?

The Sinking Night

I have had nothing but positive feedback and interest. However, I am yet to strike a relationship with a buyer willing to take a chance on one off ecoture!

Winning the InStyle Women of Style scholarship last June gave me exposure, a huge asset to a young eco label. It also gave me access to a huge audience that may not have known about eco alternatives.

What sort of women are your clothes aimed at?

Women who are off centre, who do not follow fashion trends or care about having the latest ‘it’ item. They are designed for women who enjoy something different, want something that is personalized, bold and hand made. Women who enjoy the stories of the fabrics and respect the craftsmanship of reworking pre-loved garments, giving them a new life.

What is the main hurdle facing ethical designers these days?

For me the hurdle is competing with a mass-produced retail world. The nature of my work and philosophy of one-off designs often contradicts the whole concept of consumer fashion. I do not produce quantity- thus cannot take buyer orders. I do not make patterns therefore designs cannot be replicated. For me the hurdle I face is convincing buyers that a small, one-off range has a place in an overpopulated, cheap, trend-based wasteful consumer society.

What schemes do you have in place to make Rachael Cassar an eco-aware company?

Everything is hand made by me at the moment. If in the future I do outsource any work, everything will be local, supporting small businesses. Fabrics are all recycled and dry cleaned at an eco drycleaner.

Rachael Cassar