London Fashion Week catwalk report: Julia Smith

Showcasing her Autumn Winter 09 collection at London Fashion Week, Julia Smith wowed the expectant crowd with her modern tailoring and playful volumes, reports Maria Kaski. Greenmystyle.com’s London Fashion Week content is sponsored by eco fashion boutique DeviDoll.com.

Despite launching her own label only 14 months ago, Julia Smith’s collection was heaving with personality and displayed a maturity and expertise that belied its relative youth.

The early 80s were strongly referenced throughout the show, yet this was more about sophistication and architectural exploration than the figure-hugging Lycra mostly associated with the era.

Smith’s homage to the decade peaked with her use of shoulder pads. They were everywhere, and believe me, they looked good. Whether teamed with a dress or underneath a simple jersey, shoulders were protruding and redefining the female form.

Click here to see our picture gallery from Julia Smith’s AW09 show

Although Smith’s trademark masculine tailoring was easily identifiable in the cropped and fitted jackets and high-wasted trousers, there was a subtle femininity in the pieces too, as models took to the catwalk in figure-skimming, heavy silk strapless or one-shouldered sculptural dresses with delicate bows skilfully attached.

Smith’s interest in rich textures and natural sustainable fabrics was most evident in the gorgeous loose dresses that successfully blended the ’80s batwing sleeve with relaxed ’70s-style tunics. Appearing in an array of textures and colours, this forward-thinking and daring piece highlighted the importance of the quality and cut of the fabric in a statement dress. Showcased in a silky patterned fabric, heavy white cotton and dark sultry colours, this is a style to look out for.

Although accessories were surprisingly kept to a minimum, headpieces were big, bold and beautiful. From multi-coloured beading to impressively large flowers, it looks like our heads, as well as our shoulders, will be the centre of attention for A/W 09.

Monochrome colours dominated the collection and, perhaps not unexpectedly, it was the combination of fabrics that got hearts beating that little bit faster among the fashion elite on the front row seats. Satin was married with rouched wool and suede with cotton, combinations which, though unexpected gave substance, depth and a connection to the collection as a whole.

Trends to watch out for include long loose tunic dresses with an 80s reference and sharp tailoring that combines femininity with masculinity. Oh, and shoulder pads, shoulder pads, shoulder pads.

Click here to see our picture gallery from Julia Smith’s AW09 show

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