One to watch interview: designer Shazia Saleem

So in 2006 she decided to take an exploratory trip to India to see if her idea could become a reality: “I went there to see if I could do it. I didn’t have any family or any contacts there. It was really just about asking anyone and everyone about tailors and weavers. Eventually I found these amazing, magical tailors. Behind these dull buildings there was so much work and dedication going on behind the scenes.”

“These weavers, some of them are really old, were still willing to experiment and try new things. A lot of them have dire economic conditions and they are very willing to try new things. They said the ‘middle men’ often take a large share and take a long time to pay them. That’s why I decided to go to them direct.”

Two trips to India, a crash course in learning Hindi (so she could speak to the weavers herself about what she wanted to create) and with a few experimental production pieces behind her, her label began to come into fruition.

Two years on, Shazia is building a name for herself as an authority on sustainable Indian textiles with her label showcasing its capabilities firsthand. She was appointed official adviser to Indian fair trade organisation Tara Projects; was one of six selected designers that participated in the ‘Shared Talent India’ exhibition, which ran as part of London Fashion Week last September; and was invited to speak at the Tate Britain on the place of culture and identity as a fashion designer in the 21st century.

“I have become more passionate about my work,” says Shazia on what has most changed since the inception of her label.

“I’ve come to trust myself more and now I design what I like without trying to pander to what other people want.”

Photo: Sheina Donaldson